I’ve had a very difficult time deciding which tateyokogasuri textiles in my collection to share with you! Each has it’s own charm. Therefore, unlike previous postings, I’ve decided to include a small range of samples, mostly in the form of detail shots. I hope you will enjoy their charm as much as I do.
This is a wonderfully slick, tightly woven silk with a high luster. The warp threads are black and white. The weft threads are multiple colors with small flecks of black. This would have been worn as an every day, but very nice, kimono for a woman. The fabric is a little too heavy for meisen (which will be discussed in a future posting).
Ooshima (大島) is a region that specializes in mud dyed ikats. It is so famous that this fabric goes by the region’s name alone. Below is a typical example of Ooshima.
Ooshima also specializes in the use of a silk yarn with a slight slub called tsumugi. As is so often the case with Japanese terms, tsumugi can be used to refer to yarns made in several different ways. Ooshima tsumugi (大島紬), however, is most often woven with threads making use of carded silk or mawata (真綿). This particular sample has a very sensual, corn starchy sort of feel to it as you run your fingers across the surface.
Chijimi (縮み) means shrunk. However, in this case crinkled might be a better translation. The warp is an extremely fine yarn and the weft yarns are over spun.
Both the warp and the weft are dyed as a variation of kagasuri (蚊絣). The fabric has a slightly sandy feel to it, although very light and airy. It is unlined and would have been worn as a woman’s summer kimono.
I have to laugh at myself–so often I will find a beautiful example of a textile and subconsciously determine the fiber or the weave/dye techniques employed without actually making an attempt to verify my conclusions. Writing about these textiles has forced me to examine them closely, often to my surprise.
I have many tateyokogasuri pieces, especially those that fall within the general category of kagasuri. In examining many of them for this article I found that they are not truly kasuri after all but excellent imitations! In my next blog I will give you a few tips to help in determining the difference.