Prepared Weft Frame
In much the same manner as tategasuri, portions of the threads used in yokogasuri are tied off to create blank areas of pattern. In tategasuri we know that master threads are created to represent segments of the warp pattern. The same will be done for the weft threads, however the approach is a bit different.
The individual weft threads, rather than running one full length straight as the warp threads do, will need to tack right to left and back again. There are many approaches to calculating the measured marks on the master weft thread to indicate where the bundle is to be tied. I’m a visual person so I will go with the method that is most visually direct.
Transferring Design to Warp
A frame is used to create a false weft. The frame is simply a board with two sets of nails running parallel, spaced a bit wider than the fabric to be woven.
Using Master as a Guide in Tying Bundles – The red circles indicate where the ‘bend’ was on the frame.
The prepared image is transferred to the threads using a dark ink. This is the master thread.
Extended Master Thread As It Is Removed From The Frame
Only one master thread is required. Once the number of repeats needed is determined, threads equal in length to the master thread are gathered into one bundle. Following the marks on the master thread, the bundle is tied off and dyed.
As the weft is woven the pattern begins to emerge. Due to slight irregularities in the tying, the dyeing, and the weaving, completed imagery generally has a fuzzy, vague definition to the outlines. This is the hallmark of kasuri weaving.
Woven Sample Using a Solid Color Warp
Unlike the warp threads in tategasuri, the artist doesn’t have the option of shifting the weft threads slightly to create variations of the imagery. However, a mirror image may be woven by simply starting a new pattern from the left rather than the right. Or an image may be flipped up-side-down by starting to weave with the end of the thread rather than the beginning.
Varying the Starting Point of Each Repeat will Yield Interesting Results
The Textile of the Week sample presented here, 201216, is yokogasuri with a very rustic tsumugi weave and a classic color combination. Four colors have been used–black, rust red, persimmon yellow, and white. The warp is black. Natural dyes on silk.
201216 Textile of the Week: Yokogasuri
Sample 201115-tategasuri $14 plus postage and tax ($12 even if purchased as part of a set. For more information about sets, click on this text.)
Both the colors and the graphic pattern have a somewhat quiet and folksy feel. Nonetheless, this is a very sophisticated and complex pattern to calculate. Take a peek at the selvedge edge. You won’t find any dangling weft threads in this sample. The artist has taken advantage of the technique by encouraging the staggering of the lines as an integral part of the design.
Close Up of Weave Showing Selvage Edge
As a balanced flat weave, the black warp adds a richness and depth to the piece. Each pixel of weft is framed by the black, heightening the sense of texture and giving the illusion of luminosity to what would otherwise be a very mat surface.