Textile of the Week: 201109 Sha
Sha is the most basic form of karamiori–which isn’t to say it isn’t something quite delightful.
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Double Weave Sha 二重紗織り
Sample 201109-Double Weave Sha $14 plus postage and tax. ($12 even for subscribers. For more information about subscriptions, click on this text.)
At first glance, the sample presented here appears to be figurative ro. But if we look at the weave under magnification, we can easily see that the structure is made up of pairs of twisting warp threads and single bundles of weft.

Stepping back just a bit with a lower magnification, we can see that it is actually a double weave sha.
40x Magnification Under Microscope (color removed for clarity)
Black Side of Fabric Showing Evidence of Reverse Red Layer
Another clue to be considered in unraveling this mystery of this particular bolt is the label which states 高級二重本紗 (High Quality Real Sha Double Weave).

It is interesting to note how the red side seems to be clinging to the surface black, a bit like someone holding on for dear life with only fingers poking through the grill. The fingers showing through are the parts of the red visible from the surface which helps to create the imagery.

Let’s take a look at the back.
View of Back Highlighting Red Fiber Structure
The black threads from the front side seem to be embracing the red, holding them up close to the surface.
Detail of Leaf Pattern as Seen from the Right Side of the Fabric
If we flip back to the front side again, it is easier to see how the clinging nature of the two layers produces this delicate pattern of maple leaves. Because of the double weave, the non-figured areas take on an interesting moiré affect as it is viewed from different angles, much like a 3-D refrigerator magnet.
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