Treasures from John’s Collection: Kinran Gauze 金欄ガゼ
Label Woven into Bolt Stating 本金別織 (Pure Gold Special Weave)
This bolt was woven to be cut into bands and used in piecing together a Buddhist monk’s vestment called a kesa. It is woven of pure gold and silk in a nutritious celery-green. Additional colors are added as supplemental twills with some floaters on the back. The gold is laminated to paper–indicating a very high quality, traditional weave–which was shredded into thin strips before being included as a supplemental weft.
Karakusa Pattern Silk Kinran Gauze 唐草本金金襴
The sample above does not fall within the karamiori tradition of gauze-weaves. It is, however, gauze-like – the threads are simply spread apart a bit to allow for an openness in the weave. Kinran weaves have been dealt with in earlier writings.
View of Front and Back Sides of Bolt
copyright John Marshall, 2013
Detail Depicting Basic Flat Weave Nature of Weave
Notice the spacing and the fact that the warp threads do not twist as in karamiori.
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